"Robert Sietsema: I’ve always revered the kosher Second Avenue Deli for its hot corned beef, even as they’ve migrated northward, but non-kosher Katz’s remains the king of hot pastrami. Still sliced by hand, the scarlet, pepper-rubbed meat settles thickly on the rye bread like a sunburned bathing beauty onto a hot beach."

"So if you're at Katz's and not in the mood for pastrami on rye, you have a few options: the pastrami and eggs (order the eggs scrambled soft and tell them you want the deckle pastrami sliced by hand); the pastrami Reuben; the chicken salad sandwich on whole wheat toast; and the cheesecake for dessert."

"The fatty, peppery goodness of their pastrami just takes you out of your seat. One minute you're sitting in a packed dining room with walls full of pictures, and the next minute you're lost in how deliciously happy your tongue feels."