Xiao long baos at 456 Shanghai Cuisine are good
With a new year comes new possibilities. There's a new Olympics this year, a new presidential election, and in the restaurant world, probably countless new openings and closings. As 2011 drew to a close we all parted ways with the outgoing New York Times restaurant critic and in 2012 we're all going to get used to reading what Pete Wells has to say. This is exciting, right? Sam Sifton gave ethnic food a good spin, and I hope Pete Wells does the same. It was cool when Sifton reviewed 456 Shanghai Cuisine because Manhattan's Chinatown doesn't get enough recognition.
Steph and I tried the cold sesame noodles from the appetizer section of the menu. Steph said it had a peanut taste moreso than sesame, but it all blends in for me. The noodles weren't aldente but I like 'em that way for sesame noodles. We got more noodles than we anticipated, but I suppose if it's just noodles and sesame sauce they can pile it on.
We also tried jellyfish because it's Steph's second time eating it. If you've never had jellyfish, it's one of those things that Chinese people like to eat for the texture. It's slightly crunchy, and it's basically just lightly dressed. I thought it was refreshing but if you're not familiar with this dish and its texture, it can be a bit much.
We also tried their scallion pancakes because we've been trying to find a decent version in Chinatown. So far Shanghai Cafe has been the winner. It doesn't look like 456 Shanghai Cuisine will threaten their choke hold on that crown. 456 does look like it will compete on another level though...
The xiao long baos at 456 Shanghai Cuisine will draw both fans and critics. First lets list what it has going against it... size. The XLBs at 456 Shanghai Cuisine are probably some of the smallest you'll see amongst reputable Shanghainese restaurants in New York City. Eight still come per order, but you definitely will feel the difference in size. It either takes one confident or cheap Chink to deliberately go smaller in the size department. What this XLB has going for it is that the taste is right up there with other top XLBs in the city.
I think 456 Shanghai Cuisine has a lot going for it, and it certainly stepped up in trying to compete for the best xiao long baos in New York. While it's too difficult to just name one place the best, I think 456 currently is up there with the best of them.
456 Shanghai Cuisine
69 Mott St.
New York, NY 10013
212-964-0003
I found a frozen brand of scallion pancake that is really good. You just need to fry it properly at home. The problem is there's been occasions when I don't heat it up properly and it gets oily.
Ang
January 5, 2012 3:29 pm
I thought 456's xlb's and their stir fried year cakes were far less greasy than joe shanghai, yet they were tasty. Honestly the size of the xlb's wasnt an issue.
jae_em
January 6, 2012 10:29 pm
@Ang,
you gotta show me which brand you're talking about. i don't buy frozen food enough...
@jae_em,
oooh stir fried rice cakes. that's a good idea, i'll have to get that next time. yea i was mostly ok with the size but i just want to make sure people know it's a bit smaller than avg before they partake.
Danny
January 8, 2012 7:33 pm
You know, the more I eat XLB in NYC the more I feel like people who've lived in Shanghai must think we're total fucking idiots for debating which one of our stateside XLB is best in show. There's definitely a top tier, but even the "best" (Nan Xian, 456, Din Tai Fung, Joe's etc.) don't seem drastically distinct from each other in terms of pure quality. Or is sweating the small stuff the true sign of a XLB fanatic? I wish Shanghai were not a continent and an ocean away.
James
January 9, 2012 12:59 am
@James, what do you mean by "terms of pure quality"?
Steph
January 9, 2012 10:17 am
@James,
word, I think when it comes to the top tier here in NYC, I think they're all very close to each other. I actually wonder just how much better it is over there in Shanghai... Ditto with questions about pizza and pasta in Italy and what not. The atmosphere matters a bunch too I think.
Danny
January 9, 2012 11:18 am
Danny, the simple answer is "it's not" imho
Nicholas
January 10, 2012 7:55 pm
Is it common usage on this blog to have racial slurs: "It either takes one confident or cheap Chink to deliberately go smaller in the size department."?
Dan
January 11, 2012 10:50 am
@Dan,
obviously you're not a long-time reader. anyway, I've gone over this before. Basically there's plenty of other blogs, much better written and no racial slur blogs out there for your enjoyment. I could suggest some if you want, but sites like NYtimes and Serious eats have some good links if you want to start there. This blog is not for everyone. Anyway, thanks for visiting.
Danny
January 11, 2012 10:53 am
@Steph - I was referring to judging the quality of a food while trying not to consider things like price/value, atmosphere, etc. There are slight differences between all of the best XLB I've had in the States, but I don't believe that any of them is flat-out better than another in terms of quality.
I'm down with Nan Xiang and Din Tai Fung and would only complain that DTF always has a huge line, whereas Nan Xiang's are a bit bigger than I would like. Neither is a reason to declare one or the other the "best" -- they're both better than obviously bad XLB and I feel it's pointless to get into the "best XLB" conversation when I haven't even been to Shanghai.
Then again, it seems like Nick has had some experience debunking the XLB of the holy land...
James
January 12, 2012 1:55 am